TIRES 207 – 320: Twyfelfontein and The Erongo Wilderness

The toilets on the way to Erongo were much nicer. They included thousands of square kilometers off the gravel roadsides with views of the Brandberg mountain, Namibia’s highest. The drive is quite gorgeous and offers yet another feel to the empty country. Swakopmund and the sandy coast slowly morph into a geological playground, accented by the locals on the side of the road selling semi precious unrefined stones from piles beside their corrugated shelters. Towns exist out here because of the mines that required them. It is on this road that the Gerndt’s were introduced to the Himba and Herero people, also selling their characteristic necklaces, bracelets, and dolls (perfect for two little girls that live by a horse farm).

Herero Doll Artists

Herero Dolls

Himba Family

The best way to picture the Erongo region (besides the pictures) is to think of Wylie Coyote riding a big red Acme rocket after Roadrunner between red rock cliffs and perched rocks. This landscape led us into the Twyfelfontein area, famous for unique rock formations and the rock art. Our lodge was built into a rock cluster and probably the most unique of the trip. The shower was sandwiched outside beneath a cavern of enormous boulders, and the rooms were perfect circular domes with porches facing the open plain where the desert elephants wander for drink. Just before arrival, we were lucky enough to spot one of these rare desert adapted behemoths, drinking and cooling off.

" Meep Meep" Country

The Rare Desert Adapted Elephant

The evening we arrived, we set right off to see the rock carvings and paintings. It must have been fascinating to stumble upon the place for the first time. The carvings emote feelings of aliens upon first glance, with their clustering of saucer like concentric circles and dots. Our guide explained to us that they likely represented a map of sorts directing the hunter gatherers of the location of water. It was interesting to hear that the San people of 6,000 years ago were so considerate to each other, providing road maps to their source of survival.

The most famous and interesting carving was the Dancing Kudu, a form of the still prevalent herbivore, in a somewhat whimsical movement as if trotting to an ancient rhythm. The animal was surrounded by countless other engravings including many flying saucers, but dwarfed them and served as the focal. At other younger locations, the engravings migrate to paintings. Ahhhhh technology. The paintings are much more definite in their lines, providing finer details, even such that all of the appendages of the sexes are recognizable.

Aliens

Dancing Kudu

Anatomically Correct Paintings

Zebra Carving

We then went to visit the organ pipes, a rare rock formation that created a very symmetrical surge of hard rock and cooled such that the pieces are independent geometrical vertical pieces. We wandered the little dry river bed where the formation hid and watched the late light play on the shapes before leaving to Burnt Mountain. In the guide books, this was the jewel of the area, yet when we arrived, it looked like a pile of dried dirt. Supposedly, if the sun shines on it right, it is hallucinogenic, but for us is was a one minute stop and back to the lodge.

A Cheesehead at the Organ Pipes

The following morning, we drove to the Erongo Wilderness Lodge via the artsy town of Omaruru. The setup here was tents on platforms perched over the surrounding boulders. Hundreds of little Rock Dassies were scattered about here, three of which were strangely captivated by us. Not sure if Alvin and the Chipmunks or The Three Stooges are more appropriate, but they definitely had a personality. The area was breathtaking at sunset with its smooth mountains and crumbling granite. It served as a nice respite with little activity except lounging, which was perfect before our final leg, where we were to be walking in the bush with the leopards and hyenas.

Alvin, Simon, Theodore

Erongo Sunset